Saturday, March 29, 2014

Troublesome Territory

Dave and I are enjoying retirement. Our little RV gives us the chance to hit the road and explore some of the places we've always wanted to see. Our first adventures took us west to National Parks and through some beautiful scenic places. We've been up to South Dakota and this winter down to Texas and New Mexico trying to escape the 2014 Polar Vortex.

Each time we go, we are drawn into American history and the tales of western expansion - and of Native American displacement. Some of the places we've visited leave a bittersweet taste in my mouth or a little bit of an ache in my heart. It's long-ago history, but as I visit the places that used to "belong" to our Native American neighbors some of what I see/read/learn does bother me and sticks in my mind.

In 2013 we visited the wonderful Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody, Wyoming. The artwork, relics and collection were amazing. One wall shared quotes from famous Native American Chiefs - and the one that hit me the hardest was (I think) from Chief Joseph saying "The White Man made many promises to the Indian and kept only one: we will take your land." Then this year I found this amazing painting at an art museum in Santa Fe entitled "Safe in Her Own Land"…. and as I gazed at the image I remember thinking, "Not so much…..she wasn't safe".

The little I know about Native Americans and their views on land ownership seems to show that they had a different view - no one "owned" the land. They used it with gratitude, moving with the seasons and gathering it's bounty….they lived with the land. They had done so successfully for hundreds if not thousands of years before our European ancestors came charging in claiming "Manifest Destiny".  I'm not saying Native American customs were perfect and didn't include wars and land-grabs, but their societies were well established and cultures deep rooted in the land where they lived and had been working for them for generations. Conquering white men had no respect for this, few tried to understand or build bridges between the old and the new…..our forefathers saw it as their right to take the land, and they did….from sea to shining sea.

Then, while traveling home earlier this month, we drove through Oklahoma. We were on the highway and it was too early in the almost-spring for trees to be in leaf, but grass was greening. I expected Oklahoma to be flat and un-interesting, but the land stretching out north and south of the highway was beautiful. Rolling hills, open plains, then trees, some ravines and rivers to cross. But then I began to notice signs along the highway that really began to bother me. We'd pass a sign saying something like "Entering Citizen Cherokee Territory"….and a few miles later "Leaving Citizen Cherokee Territory".  The next one might be "Entering Citizen Shawnee Territory"….and then leaving. This went on and on - every few miles it seemed. Ottowa, Kickapoo, Pawnee. It turns out my guidebook states "With 39 tribes headquartered in Oklahoma and their native heritage on display throughout the state, 'okla-homma' (which means 'red people' in Choctaw) remains true to its name."

Just how did 39 tribes get to be "headquartered" here? Tribes from all over America were forced to leave their homes and move to what would one day become Oklahoma. Never mind their traditions, never mind that the land here did not support their customary ways of living…. never mind.

It just bothers me…. just a personal opinion…..but it still bothers me.




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